Setting up A Freshwater Aquarium

We sell a few different starter tank set-ups, they come with all the basic equipment you will need. Once you have purchased the size of the tank you want, you need to decide on its location. It's best to get the biggest tank you can afford because communities are easier to establish in large aquariums. Remember, though, that a large tank will also require a sturdy stand that is strong enough to hold the weight of the tank, (think of it as approximately 100 pounds per 10 Gallons), lighting, filtration, aeration, and heating equipment. We do also sell a verity of stands. The ideal location is where you have elbowroom for maintenance, near an electrical outlet, access to water, and which is not too near direct sunlight, heat source; this could cause algae to grow and your water temperature to fluctuate . If your tank isn't level, stress will be put on the seams and could cause an eventual leak. Place a 1/4-inch sheet of Styrofoam under it to help distribute the weight more evenly.

If you have been to the store lately and have decided on what types of fish you want to keep, do enough research on the different requirements of the various species of tropical fish, feel free to come in and ask us questions, and from there, plan out your landscape. Remember that conditioning and temperature of the water is not instant, so, don't expect to introduce fishes into the setup the same day you install the tank.

Once you have your new aquarium home, rinse the tank, gravel and decorations well in water. Never use soap or detergent to clean your tank or gravel - if you don't get rid of all traces of soap, you will have to buy new fish. Gravel can be boiled as long as it isn't plastic. Now that you have cleaned everything well, it is now time to set up your tank.

Install the filtration system. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully, since models vary in their installation. Remember to rinse media to get rid of dust, etc. But do not turn it on yet.

Add clean gravel, Figure on 1 pound of gravel per gallon the tank holds. Our starter kits do not come with gravel, so make sure to purchase some when you purchase the kit. Put the plants in, anchoring the bottoms in the gravel. Most people start with plastic plants and eventually move to live plants later. Live plants require more attention, good substrate and fluorescent lighting.

Fill your tank with water, leaving about an inch at the top. Tap water contains either chlorine or chloramines that are not good for tropical fish, so you will want to use a water conditioner to get rid of it. We suggest Aquasafe or start Right.

Start the filter system. Add the heater, aeration and thermometer. Most tropical fish do best at 76 to 79 degrees. Cold-water fish prefer a range between 50 and 70 degrees. If your not sure about the temperature you want make sure to ask one of us at the store about the fish you want to keep.

Let everything run for at least 24 hours and get the temperature settings right and the water moving. Put the new fish in when the chemical levels are all OK and the tank temperature is within tolerances.

Maintaining a Freshwater Aquarium

Feeding and looking after the health and wellness of the fish is just one aspect of tank maintenance. Keeping your aquarium clean doesn't have to be unpleasant or take a long time. Some minor tasks can be done regularly to avoid, or delay, a major cleanup. Usually a tank overhaul is only necessary when severe pollution has taken place, and a new setup is the only way to remedy the situation. If you can take care of your aquarium community properly, there will be no need for a major cleanup for many years.

Your aquarium contains living organisms that feed, grow, and age, from bacteria and other micro organisms, to algae and broad-leafed plants, to an assortment of exotic tropical fishes. As caretaker of this ecosystem, you must be there to ensure that the natural balance is maintained.

Observe all of your fish individually, this is best done during feeding time, it will familiarize you with their behaviors and it will be easier for you to identify a sick fish. Feed your fish daily. Be sure to vary their diet and not to overfeed. Finding out how much your fish will eat may take a couple days. You should only feed them only what they will eat for 1 to 2 minutes.

Top off the tank's evaporated water with dechlorinated water every day, and Remove 10 to 20 percent of the tank water by siphoning the gravel and replace it with fresh dechlorinated water once a week. This helps dilute unwanted chemicals in the tank and helps keep the tank's chemistry close to that of your own tap water. This means that you'll have fewer problems if you ever need to do an emergency water change. Scrape the algae from the tank walls once a week, unless you have an algae eater such as a plecostomus , an otto, or snails.

Check the filter pads every two weeks. Clean or replace them as necessary. It is always best to try to clean the pads before replacing to avoid having to recycle the tank again, but do so if necessary.

Test the water every two weeks. Wait at least a day after a water change. Check the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH levels. If needed we can test these in the store, but we also supply the tests for you to do at home.